Recent comments

Submitted by Solid Black Pit on

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I've always noticed that many of the budget reel advocates always fail to mention one detail: Pride of ownership. This has nothing to do with snobbery or one-upsmanship. It's the feeling of using a quality made tool, that can one day proudly be passed on to your children. And that pride of ownership is probably felt even deeper by someone who has to work hard and save their pennies to afford a luxury item. I've owned Pflueger Medalists, etc and I have no doubt that they've landed many a fish. But I grew tired of having to glue in the frame screws that always came loose, and straightening the flimsy stamped spool rims that bent all too easily. So now, I buy the best quality reel (and an extra spool) I can afford. I can appreciate it's superior construction and watch like precision, and will one day pass it down to someone who will hopefully appreciate it just as much. And the articles argument about high prices being applied solely to fly tackle is just incorrect. Have a look at Shimano's $700 Stella spinning reel, sold in freshwater sizes no less! I cannot afford a $700 reel to have when I go bass fishing. But I don't deny it's quality, and if money were no object, I'd be proud to own one. Saltwater surf and offshore reels can be even more expensive. Go price a Van Staal or Accurate spinner or Accurate’s Platinum lever drag reel and you'll see that luxury fishing items are not relegated to just fly fisherman. These are QUALITY items. Yet someone who never owned one will be the first to proclaim how "overpriced" they are on some internet bulletin board. I've heard the same argument applied to such diverse products as automobiles ("Lexus is overpriced, my last Chevy lasted 15 years!"), wristwatches ("My Timex can tell the time just as well as your Audemars Piguet") and tools ("I'd be a fool to buy Snap-On tools when I have a Harbor Freight right down the road"). And this brings me my final point. Budget items may very well work under low stress applications, or for the occasional user. But see how many professional fishing guides or tournament anglers use budget tackle. Or ask any good mechanic who relies on his tools for a living if he shops at Harbor Freight.

Pit,

I really wonder what you mean by "not worth to be placed here"?

I totally disagree. Sure I wrote the article and may be a bit biased, but I find it more than worthy You have managed to judge our single most popular article ever unworthy. And it's the most commented and has the most positive comments. It's been read almost 60,000 times the last year and has over 80 comments of which yours is the first negative.

You complain that I can't tell you what exact amount of backing is needed for a reel and line, and ask me to offer a better way. Sure it's pretty silly to wind on too much and then unwind some and cut it off, but honestly... if it's such a big deal to cut and toss a bit of bacling, then tie it on to the remains you have on your bulk spool, and nothing is wasted. A knot on the backing is hardly going to be a big problem.

Your own suggestion with spooling on the fly line first and then measuring the backing is really fine, and can do the trick. Neat idea!
Whether it really saves a lot of frustration and a lot of time is another matter... I have spooled backing on dozens and dozens of reels and probably spooled some off again a few times, but never felt frustration or felt that I wasted my time. Your mileage may vary.

In the positive spirit of sharing things for free on the web I hereby pass your idea on to the couple of hundred or so people that read this article every day.

Martin

well, I am sorry to say that I consider this article not worth to be placed here. Its silly not to find a way to know how much backing is needed, before cutting meter for meter the backing and the knot to find the needed length of backing. What to do if I have cut the backing too short? Cut the lines again and add 10 meters of backing? Then discovering after completing that the additional part of the backing was too long?
Please offer a better way. As a beginner I had this problem also. I fixed the flyline with tape to the axle of the reel and wound it on to the reel. Then I attached the backing to the fly line and add as much backing as needed on the reel. Then cut the rest of the backing , take off all line and start with the backing as mentioned in this description. This way is more easy and saves a lot of frustration and a lot of time and saves the rest of the backing for the next reel.
thight lines
pit

Submitted by Colin Mombourquette on

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Jim, a bit later in life than I had planned, I'm finally getting back into flyfishing, just in time for my retirement from the Canadian Army. I have also taken up fly tying and have been searching the internet for how-to videos for a while; however, I just came across your videos today and must say, they are some of the best that I have seen. Great explanations with nice clear shots of every step. While my Egg Sucking Leech may not be quite as refined as your's, I'm hoping that the Ontario Ganaraska River Steelhead will find it annoying enough to take a snap at it this April. Super site and excellent videos. Thank you very much for the instruction and the inspiration. Cheers, Colin.

Submitted by Sven Johann Jonsson on

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FishIceland is a great place to find salmon and trout angling in Iceland

Submitted by Al Pitt on

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Fly photos are GREAT. Lots of good ideas for new patterns and some great oldies that most fishermen have forgotten. Note---they haven't lasted 150 years by being dogs!

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